Tag Archives: photography

How your camera works– the meter

This is part two of how your camera works, and it’s a little bit more complicated than the first round. I’ll try to keep it as simple as possible, but some of this is pretty close to magic.

As I explained earlier, when you take a picture the aperture closes down part of the way, the shutter opens, and then the sensor records the light it saw. There’s a step that happens before that, and it’s a very important one.

Your camera is surprisingly smart for such a small piece of gear, and it does a lot of sneaky stuff when you aren’t looking. You’ve probably noticed that if you leave the camera in automatic mode, it pretty much just figures out how to take a picture that looks pretty good. Sometimes it guesses wrong, but most of the time it gets pretty close to a good picture. How does that happen?

Your camera has a built-in light meter that measures how much light is coming into the camera. Just before you take a picture, when the shutter button is halfway down, the camera very quickly measures the light coming into the camera and then picks out the settings it thinks will be best for a good picture. If you’re in a dark bar, the camera will want the lens to be wide open and the shutter to be open for a long time. In bright daylight, the camera will want a smaller opening and a quick shutter speed so that the photo doesn’t get overexposed.

MeterIsHappyI’m sure you’ve seen the weird scale thing somewhere on your camera. There’s almost certainly one in your viewfinder, and quite possibly also one on a screen on the top or back of your camera. It usually has numbers that go from -2 to +2, with a bunch of tick marks in between and a line that moves around seemingly of its own volition. That thing is a display of your camera’s meter, and it’s really very simple to understand. The camera moves the line around to let you know if it thinks the shot is going to be underexposed, overexposed, or just right. When the line is right smack dab in the center, as it is in this photo, the camera is very happy about the exposure. That doesn’t mean the exposure will be perfect– cameras are far from perfect at guessing this stuff. They’re pretty good, though, and the camera’s meter will usually be a very good starting point.

If the line is to the right of center, that means the camera thinks that the shot will be over exposed– the photo will have too much light. A much more common situation is that the line will be way over on the far left, which means that there’s not enough light and the photo will be underexposed. In automatic modes, the camera will do its very best to get that line in the middle of the display, but sometimes it just won’t be able to even at the slowest shutter speed and the widest aperture. Later we’ll talk about ways of handling that. For now, just try to get more light if you can.

Modern cameras generally have very sophisticated meters with all sorts of different modes. You’ll often hear terms like spot, zone, center-weighted, evaluative, partial, super duper, whizbang, and confusing. Camera review sites will list the various modes as badges of honor, and gear geeks will discuss them ad nauseum.

Don’t worry about those for now, and just leave yours set to whatever the camera’s default is. Right now, all you really need to know about metering is that your camera knows how to measure light and pick out shutter speeds and apertures based on the light it sees.

OK, I’ll tell you just a little bit more. Your camera’s default mode is probably one where the middle of the picture matters a lot, the edges barely matter at all, and the stuff in-between matters a little bit. That’s because most people put the important stuff in the middle of the picture. Somewhere down the line we’ll talk about different metering modes and why you might care, but that’s pretty far away. It’s entirely possible that you’ll never have a reason to use anything but the camera’s default mode.

Next lesson: How your camera works– exposure modes

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Shutter speed, why you care

FourLittleAngelsOK, those spinning light pictures are kinda cute, but why do you really care about shutter speed if you aren’t trying to capture fire dancers? In short, the shutter speed gives you artistic control of the way your camera captures motion.

One day at work, I heard jets flying very low over my San Francisco office. I happened to have the camera on my desk, so I grabbed it and ran up to the roof to see what was causing the ruckus. I’d completely forgotten that it was Fleet Week in San Francisco, and the Blue Angels were putting on a show for us. I grabbed my longest telephoto lens and started snapping. Since the planes were going by at several hundred miles per hour, I needed a very fast shutter speed to avoid blurriness. This photo was taken at 1/1600 sec, which is pretty speedy.

What if you want to take a picture of your son’s little league game. He’s the pitcher, so of course you want to capture him for posterity. What shutter speed should you use? Well, it depends. Do you want to freeze him in motion just as the ball flies away from him? If so, you should probably use a shutter speed of around 1/500 in order to freeze the motion. Do you want to capture blur from the motion of his arm and see the ball traveling through the air? To achive this result, use something slower, maybe 1/80 or 1/60.

JohnInMotionHere’s a neat picture of my drummer friend John. The shutter speed on this was 1/80 sec, which froze almost everything the picture but captured the motion of his drumsticks and his hands. This produces a much more interesting and dynamic shot than if the drumsticks had been completely unblurred– you can almost hear the crash of the cymbal as the fast-moving drumstick comes down on it.

There’s also an interesting remedial component to shutter speed that you should be aware of. Have you ever taken what you thought was a wonderful photo, only to find out later that it was shaky and blurry? It turns out that humans aren’t all that great at holding perfectly still. When we try to take a picture with a slow shutter speed, it doesn’t really matter what our subject is doing. The photographer (that’s us!) wiggles and jiggles around so much that even a picture of a rock will be blurry.

If you’re holding the camera in your hand rather than supporting it on a tripod or some other solid surface, you need to use a fast enough shutter speed that your own motion won’t blur the photo. Some photographers are better at holding still than others, but everybody gets camera shake if their shutter speed is too slow. A general rule of thumb is that your shutter speed should be no slower than the focal length of your lens. For example, if you’re using a 50mm lens, use 1/50 or faster. If you’re using a 200mm lens, use 1/200 or faster. Unless you have nerves of steel, that’s the absolute slowest that you should try to hand-hold a shot. Even you might not be quite that steady; it pays to experiment and figure out how steady your own hands are.

IMG_8485Newer image stabilizing lenses will let you exceed that guideline, but they’re relatively expensive, and they aren’t the cure-all that some people make them out to be.

Thus far, we’ve pretty much just focused on reasons that you might want a fast shutter speed. What about a really slow one? Fireworks are one example. You need a tripod or some other way to stabilize the camera, but fireworks are surprisingly easy to shoot. For this shot, I set the shutter speed to 4 seconds and then did my best to time the shutter so that it opened just before an explosion.

Here’s another great example. Noted nature photographer Joe Decker uses a slow shutter speed to capture the movement of water in this stunning image. Incidentally, Joe has graciously allowed me to use some of his photographs as illustrations on this site. You should check out his work.

Next lesson: How your camera works– the meter

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Shutter speed, how it works

In the last entry I said that there were three basic things that determined exposure: shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. Shutter speed is the first thing we’ll discuss, since it’s easy to understand and its effects are obvious and intuitive.

8As I explained in a six-year-olds view of your camera, there’s a sensor at the back of the camera that records light. This sensor is jam-packed with light-sensitive gnomes who do nothing but wait for light to hit them and then record whatever light they see. Most of the time these gnomes are very bored, because there’s a curtain in front of them that blocks out all the light. That curtain is called the shutter.

When you press the button on your camera to take a picture, the shutter opens briefly (or usually briefly, at least) and then closes again. While the shutter is open, light falls on the sensor gnomes and they excitedly write down what they see. In scientific terms we call this taking a picture.

30If the shutter is open for a long time, a lot of light hits the sensor gnomes. If it’s only open briefly, the gnomes get correspondingly less light. The amount of time the shutter is open is called, amazingly enough, the shutter speed.

125 Shutter speed is expressed in fractions of a second, and is most commonly in the range of about 1/30 sec to 1/500 sec, though it can range from many seconds up to the maximum speed of your camera– frequently 1/2000 or 1/4000 of a second. Your camera may identify the shutter speed that way, but more commonly it will only use the lower number. On my Canon, shutter speeds are displayed as 30, 100, 500, etc. Those mean 1/30, 1/100, and 1/500 second respectively. For slower shutter speeds, my Canon uses a slightly different display: 1/4 sec is displayed as 4, but then it goes to 0”3, which means .3 seconds, then 0”4, 0”5, 0”6, 0”8, 1”, etc. 1” is one second, of course. From there it keeps climbing up to 30”, which is 30 seconds.

The neat thing about shutter speed is that it can be used to display motion in your photographs. If you use a really fast shutter speed, you freeze whatever action is happening. Using a slow shutter speed will let you capture motion blur.

500In order to illustrate this, I stuck my camera on a tripod and took a series of photos. I used a glow poi (a light-up ball on a string) and spun it in circles while taking a sequence of pictures at different shutter speeds. In the first picture, taken at 1/8 of a second, you can clearly see the motion of the ball as it sweeps around its arc.

At 1/15 of a second, there’s still motion but less of the arc is visible. At 1/125 sec the ball just looks like a blur, and finally at 1/500 sec the ball is completely frozen in its tracks.

That’s how shutter speed works, in a nutshell. Next, we’ll see some real-world examples of why you might want to use a specific shutter speed.

Next lesson: Shutter speed, why you care

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Three things that go into exposure

Too Bright As we learned before, when you take a picture a few things happen quickly. First, the aperture closes to block some of the light that’s coming into the camera. Second, the shutter opens and closes. As soon as that happens, the magic gnomes on the camera’s sensor record whatever light they saw when the shutter was open.

I’m sure you’ve taken some pictures that came out way too dark, or maybe even completely black. You’ve probably also taken some that were really light and washed out. We call those dark pictures underexposed, since they didn’t get enough light. The way too light ones are called… can you guess? That’s right, overexposed! Give yourself a shiny gold star.

You’ll see three little bears next to the text in this article. The first one is too bright– he’s overexposed. The second one is too dark– she’s underexposed. Baby bear is at the bottom– he’s juuuuuuusssttt right. IF you go through all of the lessons on this site and do all of the exercises, you’ll know what it takes to get all of your pictures to be just like baby bear.

Too Dark There are three basic things that go into the equation for how a picture will be exposed. The first is how long the shutter is open– if it’s open for a long time, a lot of light gets in and lands on the sensor. If it’s only open for a very short period of time, a lot less gets in. Because photographers like fancy schmancy terms, we call this shutter speed.

The second thing that controls exposure is how big the aperture is. If it’s closed down so that there’s only a tiny hole, not much light gets in. If it’s wide open, a lot more light comes in and lands on the sensor.

If you can’t make sense of how aperture works, imagine that you’re in a plain room with no lights at all… not even the glow of a computer screen. (Stop shaking… it’s an imaginary room.) All of the light in this room comes from one window that faces out to a bright sunny day. If the room has a really big window, then the room will be bright and sunny. On the other hand, if it has a teeny tiny window, the room will be pretty dark. The aperture on your camera is like the only window the camera has. If the aperture is big, lots of light gets in. If it’s small, only a little bit of light sneaks through.

Just Right The third thing that goes into exposure is called ISO, and it’s a measure of how sensitive the sensor is. Remember our sensor gnomes? Think of them as light microphones. If the camera is set to a very high ISO (e.g. 800 or higher), the gnomes will be able to record small amounts of light. At low ISOs (100, 200) the gnomes need a lot of light.

Right about now, you’re probably thinking that you want the gnomes to be as sensitive as possible, but that’s not true. For now, just trust me on this, and I’ll explain later.

Next lesson:  Shutter speed, how it works

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How your camera works, in overly simplified terms

In order to understand photography, you need to have a basic understanding of how your camera works. Don’t get scared! Even a six-year-old could understand this. In fact, here’s what your camera might look like if a six-year-old used Paint to draw it:
A six-year-old's view of your camera

At the very back of the camera there’s a sensor that records whatever light hits it. We don’t really care much about how this happens right now, since it doesn’t matter. For our purposes, let’s pretend that there are millions of magic camera gnomes that live on the sensor rubbing shoulders with each other and spend all their time waiting for a little bit of light to reach them. When they see light, they get excited and record exactly how much light they see.

If the gnomes always got light they’d get tired and stop working, so right in front of the camera is a shutter. Think of this as a curtain that’s closed almost all of the time, but opens up for a brief moment when you want to take a picture.

Whenever we take a picture there’s a lens attached to the front of the camera, and that’s where the light comes in. The lens has a lot of glass in it arranged in special ways so that everything focuses just so, but we can treat this as magic too. In addition to the glass, there’s a round opening called the aperture or diaphragm. The diaphragm controls how much light gets into the camera– open wide and a lot gets in. If it closes down to a tiny pinhole, only a little bit of light gets through to the gnomes. When you aren’t taking a picture the diaphragm is always open as far as it can be, and when you take a picture it closes down to let the right amount of light in.

When you take a picture, a few things happen really quickly: the diaphragm squeezes down to block out some of the light, the shutter curtain goes up very quickly, the gnomes get all excited and write down what they see, and then the curtain closes and the gnomes go back to waiting.

And that’s it in a nutshell– the magic of photography. In the next few lessons, we’ll learn how to control the aperture, the shutter, and the elves in order to take good pictures.

Next lesson: The three things that go into exposure.

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